This marvelous blue cheese is the English contender for "King of Cheeses. " Although it is made in parts of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire, it received its name in the 18th century because it was first sold in the small village of Stilton in Huntingdonshire. Stilton is made from whole cow's milk and allowed to ripen for 4 to 6 months, during which time it is skewered numerous times to encourage the growth of Pencillium roqueforti mold (also present in roquefort cheese). This process creates a pale yellow interior with blue-green veins. The texture is rich and creamy (45 percent fat) but slightly crumbly. The flavor has a mellow cheddarlike quality with the pungency of blue cheese. Stilton is sold in tall cylinders with a crusty brownish rind. In addition to this better-known mature version, there is also a young white Stilton that is marketed before the colored veins develop. It has a mild and slightly sour flavor. Stilton is at its best eaten by itself with a glass of port or a full-bodied dry red wine. See also cheese.